Two beautifully tiled ovens sit at the heart of the open kitchen. Historically, ovens like these would have cost a small fortune to build and maintain. This is why Luca believes that crispy, fried calzones most likely predate pizza in its flatter, rounder form. The Reginella is a golden brown crescent stuffed with Buffalo ricotta, Pecorino cheese, corbarino tomatoes, basil, and various cured meats. Ask for a side of Nduja, a spicy ragu sauce, for dipping.
For an earthier treat, try the Spacca Napoli; a white pizza topped with ripe Taleggio cheese, wild mushrooms, sweet onions, and aromatic black truffle oil. This robust pie is significantly more filling than the rest, however, and is best when shared. On the other hand, the Don Gaetano is the perfect pie for the lone diner who doesn’t mind a little spice. It is crowned with Calabrian chilies, pancetta, Pecorino and basil and is only $14. Wash it all down with an inexpensive selection of Italian wines by the glass, including Prosecco on tap.